Mac students pack a lot of learning into a few months of study abroad.
BY | JAN SHAW-FLAMM
World travelers: Macalester seniors (left to right) Mai Youa Moua, Luke Franklin, Philippa Anastos, and Mara Forster-Smith, back from their study abroad adventures, gathered recently in the Campus Center rotunda.
Most college study-away offices organize their libraries by location—Europe, Central America, Africa—but Macalester’s is organized by discipline—social sciences, hard sciences, humanities, and fine arts. That’s because Mac considers study away (off-campus study, both abroad and domestic) not just as an opportunity to expand students’ horizons but as an important component of their academic careers.
“We look at it not as ‘Where do you want to go?’ but as ‘What’s the best place in the world to study that particular subject or research that question?’” says Paula Paul-Wagner, assistant director of the International Center.
By graduation, about 65 percent of Mac students will have spent at least a semester studying away for course credit. This spring, 148 Macalester students are studying off campus, 3 in the United States and the rest in 41 countries around the world, according to Paul Nelson, study abroad coordinator. All but three are juniors, so nearly a third of the junior class is studying away. The most popular country destinations are the Netherlands (14 students), Denmark (13), Brazil, (9), Argentina (8), and Scotland and South Africa (7 each).
At least 40 of those students, and probably more, will do independent study projects resulting in substantial papers. A sample of their proposed topics includes gentrification in Buenos Aires, mapping the range of toad species in Costa Rica, women and family law in Morocco, and traditional dance in Ghana. Many students then further develop their research into a senior honors thesis.
Study away is expensive, but Macalester is generous when applying students’ financial aid award toward their experience. In order to provide a semester’s study away to the greatest number, Mac students are limited to one semester except for rare cases. One exception is Macalester’s own program Globalization in Comparative Perspective, now in its third year. Participants in this program spend the fall studying in another country, then gather in Maastricht, Netherlands, where they compare experiences in a January Macalester program before spending spring semester studying at Maastricht University.
Macalester sponsors two other study-away programs and expects to launch another this fall. Macalester’s German Studies Program in Vienna and Berlin, begun by Professor Emeritus Ellis Dye in 1969, continues to be popular. Globalization and the Natural Environment in Cape Town, South Africa, a collaborative program with Pomona and Swarthmore Colleges, is now in its sixth year. And the new program, called Global Cities in Comparative Perspective: London and the Twin Cities, is a collaboration between Macalester and the Foundation for International Education in London; it is expected to be a yearlong program taking place in these two diverse metropolitan areas.
But about 90 percent of Mac students who study off campus do so through non-Mac programs, with a few students directly enrolling in programs, particularly in English-speaking countries. Popular programs are run by the SIT Study Abroad (once known as the School for International Training), Associated Colleges of the Midwest, the Council on International Educational Exchange, and Higher Education Consortium for Urban Affairs.
“We owe a great debt to the Registrar’s Office, particularly Jayne Niemi and Julie McEathron, the registrar and assistant registrar,” says Paul-Wagner. “They work with all these different programs and translate the coursework to the American system, so that students receive the appropriate Macalester credit and grades. It’s a huge undertaking.”
This summer the International Center programs will move to the new Institute for Global Citizenship (IGC) building at Grand and Snelling. This will bring together offices and programs that, in the words of the mission, “encourage, promote and support rigorous learning that prepares students for lives as effective and ethical ‘global citizen-leaders’” beyond as well as within the United States. The International Center, International Programming, the Civic Engagement Center, and the Internship Office are all part of the IGC.
To learn more about what study away is like these days, we asked five students to tell us what the experience has meant to them. |

Luke Franklin ’09 near his study-abroad home of Tbilisi, Georgia,
in the High Caucasus.
Luke Franklin ’09
Hometown: Castle Rock, Colorado
Major: Russian Studies, International Studies
Study Abroad: Tbilisi, Georgia, Fall 2007
Most memorable experience: Choosing a “most memorable experience” from several months in another country isn’t easy. I’ve never seen anything like the High Caucasus, or climbed to a church built 2,170 meters above sea level. I’ve also never had to go around a village asking for keys to said church and, when eventually finding their possessor, been treated to a breakfast of homemade wine and musky cheese. On the other hand, in November after the mountain passes had for all intents and purposes become “impassables,” I spent evenings walking the few blocks from my host family’s flat to Parliament, to speak in a mixture of Georgian, Russian, and English to encamped protestors calling for an early presidential election. A couple days after the protests began, I walked out of my Chechen language class into a little market, where everyone was silent. Their eyes were fixed on a small television that was flashing scenes of civilians running, tear gas and water hoses, and police in riot gear. And walking home that evening, reaching the turn to my street, I saw four buses full of police and military forces blocking the street leading to Parliament.
Most important thing I learned: I learned plenty of Russian, eventually struggling through Pushkin and Chekhov in the original. I memorized Chechen poems about mountain hospitality, bride kidnappings, and raids on Cossack villages. And I learned how to eat khinkali dumplings. I learned that many in this country with such strained ties to Russia wished that Putin was their president and had a few good words for Stalin. But really what I learned was how to take my near-bedridden host mother’s blood pressure, my nightly ritual.
How study abroad changed my life: I always wanted to travel; finally getting a taste of it has made me also want to live abroad. I hope I’ll be spending a lot more time in the Caucasus.
 A young girl holding a baby bird in a rural village outside of Kumasi, Ghana.
Mara Forster-Smith ’09
Hometown: St. Paul
Major: Anthropology, Art History
Study Abroad: Ghana, West Africa, Spring 2008
Most memorable experience: Preparing fufu with my host family
for the first time. Fufu is a common dish in the Ashanti region, where
I spent most of my semester in Ghana. My family ate it once a week
on Sundays, and it took the entire afternoon to prepare. My host
mother would begin by boiling plantains and cassava in a large pot.
When they were soft, we would pound them together using a large
mortar and pestle. As my host brother pounded, my mother turned
the mixture with her hand, adding water until it became a sticky ball
of dough. Then she served the fufu with a fish soup poured over it,
and we ate it with our hands, as is typical with most Ghanaian food.
While I never learned to love fufu the way some do, I always enjoyed
preparing the dish with my host mother and brothers.
Most important thing I learned: Living with a family offers a richer
experience of a country and culture. As part of a Ghanaian family, I felt
a sense of support and security in the new and at times overwhelming
cultural and geographical setting that surrounded me. My host mother
in particular had an enormous influence on my growing accustomed to
Ghanaian life. She explained certain cultural customs, such as greeting
an elder formally and using my right hand at all times, as courteous
gestures that were essential to know and to use in daily life. Living with
a Ghanaian family I learned the importance of establishing meaningful
relationships with people wherever I go.
How study abroad changed my life: I long to return to Ghana to
visit my host family and to take part in the culture and community
once again. That’s why I’m planning to spend my first year after graduation
in Ghana, doing service work and teaching through a program
for young adult volunteers. I fully comprehend the importance of
cross-cultural friendship and understanding, and I wish to promote
this idea through my life’s work. The semester I spent living in Ghana
has shaped my view of the world and given me a picture of the person
I hope to become.
Mai Youa Moua ’09 (second from left) and friends from her study-abroad program, dressed as emperors and empresses at West Lake in Hangzhou, China.
Mai Youa Moua ’09
Hometown: Oakdale, Minnesota
Major: Asian Studies, Psychology
Study Abroad: Nanjing, China, Spring 2008
Most memorable experience: Toward the end of our semester in Nanjing, a good friend and I decided to make a weekend trip to Beijing. Before returning to Nanjing, we just couldn’t resist having Peking roast duck, a delicacy of the ancient city. After our feast we rushed to catch our overnight train, but missed it by three minutes; we’d underestimated the size of Beijing. All we could get were standing tickets on a 15-hour overnight train. I was scared, tired, and frustrated. As we entered the train, all eyes were on us, especially on my white American friend. It must have been rare to see a laowai on such a crowded train. People were sitting knee to knee, and there was nowhere to stand except in the aisle. Fortunately, two girls offered to let us squeeze in with them and soon they helped us find seats in the dining car. It was still uncomfortable, but at least we weren’t standing. By the next morning I was able get us hard sleeper tickets after being called a “stupid Chinese” for not understanding the guard with his thick Beijing accent.
Most important thing I learned: I realized that I’ve taken so many things for granted, such as clear blue skies, open green lawns, the quietness and orderliness of the streets, freedom of speech, the openness of the Web, and much more. Knowing what I didn’t have abroad, I’ve learned to appreciate more the things I have here in
the States.
How study abroad changed my life: It’s given me another perspective on life and opened up another door for me. I never knew what it felt like to be in the majority until in China I was mistaken for Chinese and blended in with my black hair and dark brown eyes. The sense of comfort I found in China has assured me that I can survive there and do psychological research, an ambitious dream of mine.

Andrew Meeker ’09 just after daybreak in Sossusvlei, Namibia. Hometown: Larchmont, New York
Andrew Meeker '09
Major: Geography, Environmental Studies
Study Abroad: Cape Town, South Africa
Spring 2008
Most memorable experience: A few friends
and I rented an old Toyota Corolla, learned
how to drive a manual transmission and on the
roads from the opposite side, and drove north
to Namibia, navigating the vast and diverse
deserts of the world’s second least populated
country. Toward the end of our trip, we wound
from the coastal city Swakopmund through the
Namib-Naukluft Desert to the Sossusvlei sand
dunes. We drove along bumpy dirt roads, taking
it slow and losing our hubcaps along the
way. Around late afternoon, the scrub desert
transformed into jagged mountains covered in
long green flowing grass, stretching forever. It
made me smile.
Most important thing I learned: During my
trip, I did an independent research project on
the liminality of refugee identity. Specifically, I
was looking at the role of the refugee identity
in Zimbabweans’ experience in Cape Town. Being
an outsider, I was very aware of intruding in the foreign world I was
entering, and I had trouble coming to terms with it. At the same time,
I was hearing the Zimbabweans’ stories of being outsiders in a foreign
land, and having a very different experience from mine. It struck me
how the interaction between a person’s identity and environment has
a substantial influence on the privileges, limitations,
oppression, access, and prejudice the
person experiences in that place.
How study abroad changed my life: I worked
with a refugee activist group called People Against
Suffering Suppression, Oppression and Poverty.
Early one morning at the Department of Home
Affairs, I was chatting with a Zimbabwean asylum
seeker (also named Andrew). He said to me,
“We are just a spectacle to you.” I was taken aback
by how direct he was, but also by the pertinence
of his observation. It was impossible to do that
work not as an outsider; it is impossible to exist
outside of myself. Although this is not necessarily
problematic, it was difficult to reconcile my
desire to make positive change with my being an
outsider. I think my experience in South Africa
cemented my desire to “think globally, act locally.”
Travel is important to gain a global perspective,
but I’d like to “be the change I wish to see in the world” in my own home.
Jan Shaw-Flamm ’76 is a writer/editor for the College Relations Department and a regular contributor to Macalester Today.
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