"I don't see a reason to do something unless you do it well," says Chris Farley. He opened Northern Brewer on Grand Avenue, about a mile from Macalester, in 1993. PHOTOS: VINCE CASTELLANOS

Chris Farley
Business: Northern Brewer, Grand Avenue, St. Paul, supply store for home beer- and winemakers.
Web site: www.northernbrewer.com

Why start a beer business?

I spent my junior year abroad on the Edinburgh program, and I went to Scotland a teetotaling vegetarian. The food there didn't do anything for me, but the beer changed me. So much social activity there revolves around pubs, and I had never seen people so outrageously opinionated about beer.

I came back and was keen on learning about the microbrewery scene growing in the early 1990s. I got an internship at James Page [at the time a Minneapolis-based microbrewery], and it seemed like most of their revenue came from their little homebrew store. Every time I went to work they'd say, "We're not brewing right now, wanna bag some hops?" To a 22-year-old it seemed like they were making money hand over fist. I thought, "Wow, there must be dozens of people here every day!" The business wasn't run well and there wasn't anything else like it in St. Paul, so it seemed like a safe bet; I thought I could do it.

How does a 22-year-old open a shop?

Two Mac friends gave me $4,000 apiece. I had no money, but they encouraged me to be entrepreneurial and I've always had that spirit. There was a space open on Grand Avenue that was small, but it was a start. I made shelves out of 2x4s, opened before Christmas in 1993 and was much busier than I expected. I reinvested everything in the business and I've done that ever since.

What were your original goals?

Honestly, it was to be No. 1--the best in the business. I don't see a reason to do something unless you do it well.

And?

We've grown 500 percent in 10 years--we've got 20 employees and are one of the top 10 homebrew suppliers in the country. We were on the Web early, which helped, and opened a warehouse 18 months ago to fulfill all the online orders. Before that we did it all out of the store. That got insane; there were boxes everywhere. Really, we probably shouldn't be on Grand, but I've been here since the late 1980s and there's a sentimental attachment.

How did Mac prepare you to own a business?

I saw people doing things at Macalester that I didn't think were possible, and that gives you the confidence to try difficult things and take risks.

Your Favorite Beer?

That's like, "Which kid is your favorite?" I'm a fan of lagers, so I'd say Pilsner Urquell [a legendary Czech beer]. As a homebrewer, that's a daunting beer to approach. It's so refined and complex.

"I wanted to go out and take a chance," says Omar Ansari, who opened Surly Brewing Co. in Brooklyn Center, Minn., in 2005.

Omar Ansari '92
Business: Surly Brewing Co., Brooklyn Center, Minn.
Web site: www.surlybrewing.com

Why open a business?

When I was young I told people I wanted to be like my dad. He was the president of a small industrial supply company, and the entrepreneurial spirit was always in our household. I worked in the family business for 12 years, but I wanted something I started and could say, "I did this."

Why beer?

Well, I like beer [laughs]; I'm a big fan. My friend Molly Dunn ['94] got me a homebrew kit from Northern Brewer in 1994. I was hesitant, because I'd drank homebrew and it was atrocious. But the first one I made was good. People are shocked to realize good beer can be homebrewed because they think beer comes from some monolithic, monstrous company in St. Louis or Milwaukee.

I bought kits for the next 10 years. I considered doing something in the industry, like a brew-on-premise business or even a homebrew store, but a Mac grad about my age [Chris Farley] had already started Northern Brewer. I was tired of saying, "What a great idea; I wish I had thought of that." I wanted to go out and take a chance, and when I got more serious about homebrewing I thought a brewery might actually work.

Goals?

For the last two years, the sole focus and direction was on opening the brewery. Now that's done, and there's a whole new set of expectations. The typical way to quantify success is in barrels produced, but our main goal is to keep making beers we think are great. That and to draw a paycheck; that'd be good.

What's most difficult about the beer business?

For any start-up, it's probably juggling family with business. For us specifically, it's the political aspects. City, state and federal governments all regulate beer; there are archaic laws in Minnesota that are a legal morass. Sometimes those laws can be changed, but the political capital and money that takes isn't small. I don't enjoy that part of the business, but I'm finding it's integral to it.

What's the best part?

Hearing people say they love the beer. When I worked in the abrasives business I never heard, "Awesome grinding wheel! Keep making great bandsaw blades!" But people like talking about beer, and that's fun.

Favorite beer (excluding Surly)?

Founders Red's Rye [Grand Rapids, Mich.] is a wonderful combination of balanced malt and hops. I stumbled upon the brewery, spent all afternoon there and really enjoyed their whole philosophy, which is about great beer and fun.